What a difference a year makes in desert dining. Last time I was sunscaping in Palm Desert was last year and I was parched for fine wine places I could put on a pedestal in this column.

Recommended restaurants were the same old retreads on El Paseo and the 111. Some have been closed

up, while others still hold court for many of the elder population.

I am glad to report that smart, sophisticated, beautifully decorated restaurants are up and winning customers by redefining taste in their cuisine and wines, and most are in classy resorts that have

been recently built or renovated.

Blu Ember is new in the Rancho Las Palmas Resort and Spa, where dining is enjoyed on a carved wood table with live music nearby most nights. Wednesday is half off bottled wines. Tuscany Ristorante, in the JW Marriott Desert Springs with its 600-plus wine selections, has ramped up the wine experience with Sommelier Paul Bologna orchestrating thematic wine tastings most evenings.

All tastings are held at the scenic boat dock. The evening I joined him, it was a Pinot Noir Showdown: California vs. Oregon. I found that of the six explored, the Napa Duckhorn Goldeneye ’05 was best, with Oregon’s best being the Willakenzie Estate “Pierre Leon,” Willamette Valley, ’05. The July schedule looks very tasty with six different lineups. Check them out if you’re going to the desert: www.desertspirngsresort.com.

The most amazing new steakhouse in the desert: The Steakhouse!

A new $300 million, 16-story resort, casino and spa, AguaCaliente, has risen in Rancho Mirage. Five lovely restaurants to choose from, but the unforgettable, stunningly beautiful facility is The Steakhouse.

At the entrance, the diner is greeted by rich woven woods and tiles plus a two-story waterfall. The dining room inside is wrapped in rich reds and gold, desert beige and earth tones. Restaurant Manager Patrick Lester guided me through the wine and food menu, brilliantly pairing the perfect wines with a menu of Portabella and Mozzarella Ravioli and Ki-bi Tenderloin Skewers. And that was just for starters! They were followed by Hearts of Palm Springs and Steakhouse Salad. At last the main event was brought in, the Bone-in Rib Eye Steak, prime grade USDA, especially aged 21 days and seasoned with a dry grill rub. Sides included Potato Dauphinoise, creamy button mushrooms and creamed spinach with caramelized onions. A 2003 Napa Wattle Creek Syrah washed it down to an incredible finish. After all that, I had to try the dessert specialty: Chocolate Molten with hot chocolate “lava” flowing from within.

Bravo to the Executive Chef Mike Milligan who was on hand to “walk” me through exactly what was prepared. The Steakhouse is currently crafting a Reserve Wine List where budget is no object. I spotted a famous ’84 Stags Leap

Cabernet for the most special of occasions. Find out more for yourself at www.hotwatercasino.com.

The Local Sip

A Silverado Vineyards dinner is planned at the French Gourmet in San Diego from 6:30 to 10 p.m. July 21. Among others, Silverado’s 2001 Cabernet will be tasted with stuffed Pork Loin. The cost is $95 per person. Call (858) 488-1725 to RSVP.

The Four Seasons Aviara has one of its fine Italian wine dinners July 24 starting at 6:30 p.m. The star will be Perre Seillan, winemaster of Kendall Jackson’s Tenuta Di Arceno, a leading vineyard in Tuscany, Italy. Outdoor Tuscan style sit-down dinner with the wines. Call (760) 603-3790 for pricing and RSVP.

Chalk Hill’s great wines will be spotlighted at the Firefly Grill & Wine Bar’s next wine dinner in Encinitas on July 24 at 6:30 p.m. Cost is $100 each. Call (760) 635-1066.

Bacchus Wine Market in the Gaslamp, San Diego has another of those “Drink Yourself Blind” events where you guess the grape in blind tastings. Prizes for four or more correct. Happens July 25 from 4 to 9 p.m. Cost is $15 per person. Details at (619) 236-0005.