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Find fun — and the sun — in Coachella Valley
May 23, 2008
My 30-year-old memories of La Quinta are that of a beautiful and historic desert inn about 15 miles southeast of Palm Springs. The lobby walls of the hotel, which opened with much fanfare in 1926, are graced with photos of some of its many famous guests: Hollywood’s elite, musicians, singers, sports legends and presidents. They all migrated to this manmade oasis in the Coachella Valley to escape public scrutiny and fast-paced lives.

Fact is, the La Quinta Hotel was about the only thing in the area until the 1970s when local movers, shakers and developers started the march toward cityhood. They achieved that goal 30 years ago this month, and today, La Quinta is a growing, vibrant community of about 41,000 people who want you to come and see what it has to offer.

Fortunately, this is the time to go and the price is right.

June gloom is about to envelope the coast, so if you feel an attack of “lackasunshine” coming on, head northeast. After June 1, you can enjoy the luxuries of the venerable La Quinta Resort and Spa and other area hotels for a fraction of what guests pay in high season.

For instance, at the La Quinta Resort and Club, as the old hotel is now called, an overnight stay during January to May costs $309 or more. But from June to September, you can enjoy the casually elegant hotel just like the big spenders for $139. (This includes a $50 dining credit. For more package specials, visit www.laquintaresort.com.)

We recently revisited the resort and were delighted to see that, even after three decades and considerable growth, the hotel still offers welcoming waterfalls, velvet emerald lawns and meandering walkways lined with splashes of purple and pink petunias, yellow and white snap dragons and scarlet bougainvillea. Management says that about 700,000 palettes of annuals are planted each year.

La Quinta also features a 23,000-square-foot spa, 41 pools, (one especially for families), 53 hot tubs and Camp La Quinta for kids.

Not far away is the new family-friendly Embassy Suites La Quinta Hotel & Spa, where every accommodation means two rooms with an extra sofa bed, a microwave and refrigerator, and high-speed internet. Wi-fi is available in the common areas. After June 1, room prices start at $89 and include a bountiful breakfast buffet with a huge selection of hot and cold foods, fresh fruits and a made-to-order-omelet station.

There are about 100 golf courses in and around La Quinta, and for the shoppers — Old Town. A collection of inviting boutiques and art galleries await — a reflection of the passion that the town has for artists. You’ll see plenty of public art about town, too, thanks to the La Quinta Arts Foundation, which stages the annual La Quinta Arts Festival in the spring.

One of the most popular restaurants in Old Town is the Hog’s Breath Inn, a name that belies the gourmet fare that draws many locals as well as tourists. Best have reservations, especially on weekends — (760) 564-5556 or toll-free (866) HOGS-888. We chatted with the owner, who with his father and silent partner Clint Eastwood, have been successful serving good food that comes in generous portions for reasonable prices. Photos — uh, murals — of Eastwood grace the walls inside and out, and more than one visitor has posed for a shot with the actor as backdrop.

We enjoyed a Sunday morning breakfast on the patio at SilverRock Resort (www.silverrock.org), where golfers play fairways bordered by the dramatic Santa Rosa Mountains. Stay alert, though. A flying golf ball just narrowly missed about a dozen diners as it shot like a rocket past our mimosas and lattes.

There is plenty of interesting history in this part of the Coachella Valley that pre-dates the resorts, golf courses, boutiques and movie stars. Read about it in “La Quinta: Legend in the Making,” by Victoria J. Bailey and Gayl Biondi (www.desertspringspublishing.com). The all-color mid-sized coffee table book contains many old photos and illustrations of early La Quinta.

On the way home, for breathtaking views of the Coachella Valley, take Highway 111 to Palm Desert, turn left on Highway 74 and follow it up the mountain. Watch for the turnout at the top of the hill for a spectacular panorama. On a clear day (almost a certainty come June), you’ll see the Salton Sea, Mount San Jacinto (11,000 feet) and the green patchwork of the communities along Highway 111. Continue on Highway 74 to Highway 371 to Highway 79. Here, either turn right to go into Temecula, or left to go to Santa Ysabel and Dudley’s Bakery (open Wednesday through Sunday). From there, take Highway 78 into Escondido.
Contact columnist E'Louise Ondash via e-mail at eondash@coastnewsgroup.com.