Zoning requirements and space availability being what they are, it’s big news when a new restaurant opens in Del Mar.

It is even bigger and better news when the restaurant is delightful. The new Paradise Grille, located in the Flower Hill Mall (off I-5 at Via del la Valle), gives locals a taste of the tropics in elegantly laid-back surroundings.

“We wanted to create a place that if you were in the Caribbean or in Hawaii at a high-end resort, or in Tahiti or Bora-Bora — that’s the kind of atmosphere we wanted,” said Conor Adair, co-owner of Paradise Grille with his wife Shana. “It’s an escape, relaxing. You feel like you’re on vacation.”

Well-conceived with amazing attention to detail, when you walk in the door, it’s hard to believe the restaurant has only been open for a few weeks. With both Adairs coming from hotel and restaurant backgrounds, they’d been refining the concept for several years while scouting locations.

Conor points out they were also fortunate to have the advice of his former employer, chef Bertrand Hug. Conor was maitre d’ at both Mille Fleurs and Bertrand’s at Mr. A’s for nearly six years, and even bears a striking resemblance to Hug, who he refers to, jokingly, as his “adopted father.”

Beautifully designed by David Robinson, who also created the interiors for Roppongi, the Poseidon, Mille Fleurs and Bertrand’s at Mr. A’s, the restaurant has three distinctive areas.

The upper level has hardwood floors and light neutral colors with hearthside tables, booths, a small outdoor patio and an adjacent room which can be closed for privacy. Bustling with its line of cooks, the open kitchen features a wood-burning brick oven and granite counters.

Downstairs, the lounge area is more intimate, dimly lit with dark woods, but with ample seating for diners. The full bar is stocked with premium liquors and there are ceiling-mounted plasma TVs.

Expanding out into the mall’s courtyard setting, the bar opens onto a larger outdoor patio which has both a fire pit and water fountain. Open until midnight, seven days a week, the Grille’s patio bar is bound to become a destination on warm summer nights to come.

Colorful, modern photographic prints by local artist Gary Brown enhance the interior’s simple lines.

As streamlined as the décor, the menus have been created by chef Justin Hoehn.

“I’m all about honesty in the food,” says Hoehn, formerly of Laurel, The WineSellar & Brasserie and Greystone – The Steakhouse. “You know what you’re going to get. The flavors are there but it’s not a bunch of flavors competing with each other. It’s good, classic flavor combinations that are paired well.”

For starters on the dinner menu; appetizers and salads, as well as flatbreads — ultra-thin baked crusts, topped with exotic ingredients. The duck confit flatbread ($15) has sliced pears, scallions, melted brie, a drizzle of soubise, as well as a generous amount of duck. This went nicely with a 2004 Tobin James Radiance Chardonnay ($7 per glass) and would make a good, light meal on its own.

Nine dinner entrees offer something for every taste. Vegetarians will enjoy the wild mushroom risotto ($18) with shaved Grana cheese and truffle oil, or the Roquefort cheese flatbread ($13).

Children have their own menu of favorite foods approved by the Adairs’ 17-month old son, Kean.

I tried the black cod miso yaki ($22), a recipe originally created by “Iron Chef” Morimoto for the TV show. Hoehn learned the dish at Morimoto’s restaurant in Philadelphia. Presented simply in a bowl of udon noodles and miso soup, the silky texture of the fish, sweetly glazed, is luxurious.

Diners with a craving for comfort will enjoy the tamarind-brined pork chop ($25). An expertly grilled, top quality, thick-cut pork chop is served on a bed of caramelized onion whipped potatoes, accompanied by sautéed snow peas and apple chutney. With a glass of 2003 Domaine Coteau Yamhill County Pinot Noir ($14), this dish is savory and satisfying.

The wine list is well-organized and offers a broad range of choices.

“We have a cabernet that’s listed at $21 (per bottle), and then they go all the way to $750 (for a 2002 Bryant Family Cabernet Sauvignon), so there’s something for everyone’s palate and everyone’s pocket,” says Conor. Monthly wine dinners are being planned; April’s special guest vintner is Tobin James.

Wednesday and Friday nights and Sunday brunch feature live music by Tongan musician Semsi Ma’u and his son, on steel drums and guitar.

Saturday and Sunday from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., the Grille offers an a la carte brunch menu with frittatas, crab cake benedict ($17) and four different kinds of pancakes.

It won’t be long until this restaurant becomes paradise found, so I suggest you get there before the crowds.

Contact the Paradise Grille at (858) 350-0808 for more information.