Over the years I may have developed some highbrow tastes when it comes to fine dining but, I have to admit, some of my fondest childhood memories are of SPAM.

Rummaging around in the cupboard at my parents’ house, it was that dark blue can of delight with the bright yellow letters and funny metal key. The dangerous thrill of trying to get the can open without cutting yourself on the sharp edges and then frying up thick slices of the salty, pink substance, served with lots of mayo on white bread.

A hot SPAM sandwich and the “Merv Griffin Show” on TV. It doesn’t get more old school than that.

So, when someone at the office recommended Kaisen Sushi and Hawaiian Grill, at 1906-H Oceanside Blvd., there was one thing I was looking forward to — SPAM, glorious SPAM, and in particular, SPAM musubi.

“SPAM musubi is a slice of SPAM, and then we grill it; put it on rice and then wrapped with a seaweed wrapper,” says Jason Jung, a server at Kaisen and nephew of owner, John Kim. “We put teriyaki sauce on top.”

SPAM sushi is a traditional favorite in Hawaii, where more SPAM is consumed per capita than anywhere else on the planet; six cans per person, per year. In fact, in Hawaii, you can get SPAM musubi at 7-Eleven stores, SPAM and eggs at MacDonald’s, and anything else you want with SPAM, for that matter.

But at Kaisen, there’s a lot more to choose from that just SPAM.

“We have a lot of combinations,” says Kim, “more choices for the customer.”

Kim, who took over ownership of Kaisen only three months ago, has expanded the menu to more than double its original size. Lunch and dinner feature the same items but dinner portions are larger and priced accordingly.

And there’s a lot of value for the price; a dinner combination of bulgogi (marinated and grilled spiced beef, Korean-style) and coconut-crusted mahi mahi with mango salsa is $10.95. Like all the dinner entrees on the menu, it comes with rice, macaroni salad, a bowl of miso soup, and an eight-piece order of California roll. The bulgogi was especially tasty and I was amazed at how much food arrived with the order.

The sushi bar offers 34 specialty rolls, all beautifully pictured in the new menu. None are priced more than $11.95. There are also Taste of Heaven boats, starting at $39.95. These are large appetizer combinations served on a decorative boat platter, which are a good bargain for small groups that want to sample sushi and finger foods.

And, of course, several Hawaiian specialties attract a loyal local following of native islanders and Oceansiders.

Kalua pig with lomi salmon ($9.50) is smoked, shredded pork with cabbage, served alongside grilled salmon that is chopped and rolled up with onions, tomato and cilantro, burrito-style, with a spicy salsa.

Furikake-crusted salmon ($9) is salmon crusted with a traditional Hawaiian seasoning of spices, seaweed and sesame seeds.

Saimin ($5.50), a popular Hawaiian noodle soup, comes served with char siu (barbecued pork), egg and green onion. You can also order it with SPAM, for real Hawaiian-style flavor.

On Wednesdays, it’s all-day $1 hot sake at Kaisen, and on Friday nights, there’s a Hawaiian plate special ($10.50) that includes lau-lau (steamed pork wrapped in spinach leaves), poi (mashed taro root), lomi salmon, chicken long rice and sweet potato.

And, of course, the SPAM musubi ($1.95) was just as Jung described; hot and salty, served on rice and quite a bargain. Combined with $1 sake on Wednesdays, it could become quite habit-forming.

Wednesday and Friday nights also feature live entertainment, with Hawaiian-style music and hula dancing. Diners are welcome to sway and sing along with the band’s excellent rendition of “Tiny Bubbles.”

The atmosphere at Kaisen is casual and kid-friendly, with a tiki hut vibe. A unique feature is the push-button system installed at every table which alerts the servers for quick and convenient service. There is a child’s menu with meals priced under $5.50, and also, vegetarian sushi and entrees available upon request.

Kim recommends calling ahead for reservations on Wednesdays and weekend nights, especially in the summer when there can be a long line to get a table.

Janell, an Oceanside local who has been coming to Kaisen on Wednesday and Friday nights for three years, said she comes because “they will make anything I want.” She and her dinner companion suggested the poki-style tuna salad ($9.50; seared tuna marinated in shoyu sauce, garlic, onions, seaweed and other spices).

But for me, I’ll stick to my guilty pleasures; a culinary trip to paradise on a plate, riding on a raft of SPAM, wonderful SPAM.

Contact Kaisen Sushi and Hawaiian Grill at (760) 757-1484.