The other day, driving down Carmel Valley Road toward Torrey Pines prompted me to ponder how many times I’ve taken that road, with its glorious view of the lagoon, cliffs and train trestles. When I was in high school (back when the Bee Gees and “surfer” bangs were popular), my juvenile delinquent friends would have all-night kegger parties under the “little” and “big” bridges, on Torrey State Beach, doing all the stupid stuff that teenagers could get away with back then.

The new year is always a good time for remembrance and reflection. Likewise, it is also a good time for new beginnings.

So, when Paolo Pastorelli and Daniele Nobili were thinking of a name for their new restaurant, which overlooks that same view of Torrey Pines, they saw the train trestles and it reminded them of a famous bridge in their native Italy: the Ponte Vecchio in Firenze.

“‘Ponte Vecchio’ means the ‘old bridge,’” Pastorelli said. “There are a lot of people that go to Florence and they recognize the name immediately.”

A painting of the famous bridge hangs in the dining room of Trattoria Ponte Vecchio, alongside artwork by Cardiff artist Gretchen Kyle. Formerly Trattoria della Mare Barone, Pastorelli and Nobili took over last November. They completely remodeled the small space in warm reds, golds and dark woods. With only a dozen tables inside and nine more on the patio, the feeling is cozy. It is a real hideaway destination for a glass of Italian red, an outdoor lunch or a romantic dinner.

While Pastorelli and Nobili work in the front of the house, Chef Sebastiano Miranda rounds out the staff of three. Coming from years of combined culinary experience, Pastorelli and Nobili have worked in several notable North County trattorias, including Villa d’Este, Vigilucci’s, Cicciotti’s and Il Fornaio, attracting a local following.

“I’m known for my minestrone and my meat sauce,” Pastorelli said. “And then Daniele is actually a better cook than I am. Last night he made gazpacho. He makes tiramisu. He’s renowned for his risotto, everything from scratch.”

When Trattoria Ponte Vecchio launches its new dinner menu this week, many of the dishes will be familiar and classically prepared.

“We are from Northern Italy,” Pastorelli explained. “Mainly, it’s traditional, home-made cooking.”

But with so many Italian venues in the area to compete with, Nobili is also eager to try out new ideas and off-menu specials.

“We have always, every day, a couple of fish, meat,” said Nobili. “Today, we have venison with my locally grown mushrooms.”

“In Italy, actually, we have these kinds of dishes,” Pastorelli added. “Pheasant, rabbit sometimes. We try to instigate curiosity [with off-menu selections]. ‘What will they make next?’”

From the lunch menu, I tried the eggplant Sorrentina ($6) for the antipasti course. Fresh eggplant stuffed with ricotta cheese, baked in a marinara sauce, this dish was light and flavorful but not overwhelmed with spices as is sometimes the case with a Southern-style preparation.

The portobello salad ($4.50) with baby arugula, cherry tomatoes, goat cheese and simple balsamic vinaigrette would make a great starter before a selection from the pasta menu. The freshness of the greens and tart vinegar combined well to prime my palate for some ravioli — a Ponte Vecchio house specialty.

With at least three raviolis available a la carte on the regular menu and others being offered as a special, many customers choose a trio combination which Pastorelli and Nobili call the Festival of Ravioli ($13.95). I had the agnolotti di vitello; veal-stuffed ravioli in a butter, sage and pancetta sauce which was slightly smoky and savory, with just the perfect touch of fresh sage. I also tried the panzerotti ai porcini; half-mooned shaped ravioli filled with porcini mushrooms in a brandy sauce. The flavor of the porcini mushroom here was pungent and delicious. Off-menu, my third ravioli was stuffed with lobster, in a brandy sauce with chopped, fresh tomatoes. The subtle taste of shellfish was complemented by the lush texture of the creamy sauce.

Also an off-the-menu selection, I tried crepes filled with fontina cheese, topped with a creamy salmon and asparagus sauce. Indulgent and rich, this dish would do well as an appetizer or entree. Like the other items I sampled, the preparation was light and fresh-tasting, without any one ingredient overpowering another.

Even the gnocchi in meat sauce ($8), Italian comfort food at its best, was light, delicate and full of potato flavor.

Nobili is committed to using fresh, locally grown, organic ingredients. A member of the Farm Bureau Association in Fallbrook where he lives, Nobili patronizes many North County growers and vendors, and even grows his own.

“I buy my avocados and oranges locally. I buy the mushrooms in San Marcos. The mussels and clams are from Carlsbad,” he said. “In the backyard, I have lime, chilies, guava and tomatoes. The mint, rosemary and sage we serve here are from my backyard.”

There are several vegetarian and vegan selections on the menu at Ponte Vecchio, including Nobili’s gazpacho soup and a vegan salad with mixed greens and tofu.

Tofu at an Italian restaurant? Mama mia!

Trattoria Ponte Vecchio is located at 2334 Carmel Valley Road (at the corner of Via Donada). Contact them at (858) 259-9063 for reservations or more information.